Freedom’s Road

The historical route from Rīga to Liepāja passes through Dobele, Saldus, Skrunda, Durbe and Grobiņa, and it dates back to the 13th century.  Remnants of Scandinavian settlements near Grobiņa also testify to the antiquity of the region.

Many things happened on the road and around it that were directly linked to the establishment of the Republic of Latvia and to its subsequent freedom battles.  At the Tīreļpurvs swamp, Latvian riflemen demonstrated their battel capabilities and heroism during the so-called Christmas battles, thus proving that a new country had been born.  The trails of the swamp are open to visitors, and there is an historical exhibition at the Mangaļi homestead.  Rīga is clearly marked along this route by the Latvian National Theatre, where independence was proclaimed in 1918.  Later the hostile attack of Bermont’s forces was stopped at the banks of the Daugava, and the superior force was ejected from Rīga and Latvia.

Approximately 70 km from Rīga is the Pikšas museum, which is the birthplace of Latvian President Kārlis Ulmanis and a good example of farming between the two world wars.  The museum of Colonel Oskars Kalpaks at Airītes offers a look at battles that occurred in the region and at things that Kalpaks did during World War I and the subsequent liberation battles.  There were battles near Skrunda and Saldus, and it was in Liepāja that German General von der Goltz conducted a coup that led Latvia’s temporary government to seek refuge on the ship the Saratov, upon which it sailed to Rīga after the city’s liberation.  Liepāja has always been an important port, and once it offered passenger services all the way to New York.

Bērzes upes labajā krastā, vietā, kur tagad paceļas Dobeles pilsdrupas, jau 1. gadu tūkstotī p. m. ē. atradās zemgaļu apmetne un vēlāk – koka pils. Gandrīz simts gadus pils izturēja vairākus krustnešu uzbrukumus un aplenkumus, un tikai 1289. g., kad vācieši bija pilnībā izpostījuši apvidu un tālāka pretošanās kļuva bezcerīga, zemgaļi paši nodedzināja savu koka pili un neuzvarēti aizgāja uz Lietuvu. 700 gadus vēlāk, 1989. gadā, godinot zemgaļu cilšu piemiņu, bijušās senpilsētas vietā tika atklāta piemiņas zīme, ko veidojis mākslinieks Mārtiņš Zaurs. Akmenī iecirsts teksts: “Zini, no šīs vietas pirms 700 gadiem zemgaļi aizgāja lepni un brīvi”, kā arī dzejnieka Viļa Plūdoņa vārdi : “Mēs svešā malā ejam, bet sirds mums paliek te”.